(Don't) Face It

Maybe you're like me and you hate facings for finishing knit garment necklines. You can interface them, understitch them, tack them at the shoulder, but they rarely stay put. And you can change rarely to never if you're talking about kids. Binding and banding are other common finishing options. 

My favorite solution, though, is simply to line the garment bodice and completely ditch the facing.

It's not rocket science, but I'm gonna step through it here. 

I used the Pippa Peplum pattern (See Kate Sew) in size 3T with the gathered skirt. (A circle skirt add on is also available.) Cut your fabric pieces are per usual, skipping the facings. Then, cut 1 extra each of the bodice front and back in a lining fabric.

Ok. This pic is not overly helpful by virtue of my fabric choices, but it shows my lining pieces, which are black.

Join the 2 sets of front and back bodice pieces together at the shoulder seams. You have 1 main and 1 lining. Then with right sides of the main bodice and bodice lining together, stitch around the neckline. Trim your seam allowance, turn the right sides out and press.

Main and lining bodices joined along the neckine

Next, you can close the side seams of the main and lining pieces (and then set your sleeves in the round). I chose instead to set the sleeves while flat because I'm working with a small garment. The finishing would be a little nicer if you went with the former approach, but again, you'll be setting your sleeves in the round. I basted the bodice along the armscye to keep the layers together while sewing the sleeves on.

Basted armscye

With the sleeves set, I closed the sleeve and side seams (all 4 layers together).

Finish assembly, gathering and attaching the skirt with both bodice layers together. 

Sew that's it! The bodice is lined and there's no flippy, floppy facings to speak of.

Lauren of Right Sides Together feels the same way I do about knit facings. Check out her lined Penelope.

I also read once about re-drafting the facings to include the armscye. It was genius, but I can't find that post now.

You probably noticed this peplum isn't truly finished as I haven't done any hemming yet. That's because I have more plans for this piece that involve Rit. (Insert big-eyed emoji.) It will be my first time dying fabric. Wish me luck!